This is the best gift I could do to myself: learn how to surf!

Another mix of luck and coincidence but when I arrived in thei little village yesterday evening, it was dark and all I knew what that there was a beach.

So it was really nice to wake up and learn that this is one of the best places to surf (it even staged one of the international pros championship 3 years ago!).

I put my speedos on and decide that for my birthday (32year old) I ought to learn how to surf. I meet Jason on the beach, an american I met the previous day. He quickly gives me some advice, assisted by his Portuguese girlfriend Marlene. Michael, a Dutch guy and Michelle his Mexican girlfriend finish my accelerated course.

The first attempts are disappointing but after a few trials (who thought I wasn't stubborn?), I eventually somehow manage to stand on the board.

The day goes by in good spirit and in the sun and I truly believe that I can now enroll in the XXL 2010, this famous contest where the best (f not the craziest) compete against each other on the biggest waves in the world (10m high…)

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