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Unplanned diversion: from Guatemala to Belize |
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Wednesday, 31 December 2008 |
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16.10 31st of December. I call Panchete to let him know I've arrived:
he cannot come to fetch me as he's about to start the Saint-Sylvester
marathon! A marathon? One of his friends comes over to meet me and I
get changed in his car: a marathon, I want to take part in it! |
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Honduras, 3 short days and gone! |
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Sunday, 28 December 2008 |
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This long stay with Norma and Enrique was really useful: it allowed me
to slow down, catch my breath back and dive back into the adventure for
its last kilometers. Another TV interview, a visit to San Juan and
Granada still in company of my hosts and then it's Christmas time. And
then at last, it's time to leave. It has been a real pleasure to live
with them and share the Nicaraguayan way of life. |
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Friday, 19 December 2008 |
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We enter Nicaragua. The customs formalities are quick despite a queue
of trucks due to strikes in Nicaragua. The news we receive from there
aren't good because of the fraud during the last elections. |
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A short stay in Costa Rica |
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Sunday, 30 November 2008 |
We spend the night in Colon, a place so dangerous that the police
thinks it is best to escort us to our hotel. Hmhmhmmm… It's not really
encouraging. The next morning we put to trial the Panamean efficiency…
Extremely disappointing… 12h of formalities to get our cars back…
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Cartagena and across to Panama |
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Friday, 31 October 2008 |
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We spend 2 nights in Cartagena before our friends arrive We go and
fetch them from the airport with the beetle and head stright to the
hotel where we'll spend a full week. Cartagena is avery pretty
fortified colonial town. The kerbs are clean and shops can be seen on
every street. The biggest inconvenience is to be a highly turistic
destination hence on-street sellers' insistance. There are also rogues
and I find myself to eb the vistim of one of them: Roberto takes the
big notes out of the pack during the transaction. A true magician's
trick! The fraud costs me 100USD but I keep admiring the genius behind
it… |
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Monday, 20 October 2008 |
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Before reaching Bogota we want to see the Nevado Ruiz near Manizales.
The clouds prevent us from doing so but we meet 2 motorbike riders on
the way who invite us to spend the night the night in a chalet in the
mountain; the beauty of the place is awesome and the natural secret
spring spas add to the scenery. I'll keep the name of our new friends
for myself but I'd like to thank them for their hospitality and the
conversation we had under the stars in a 40C hot water… |
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Colombia, long awaited stage |
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Sunday, 05 October 2008 |
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Crossing was easy The first impression is reassuring: we are not in
Peru! We meet Adrienne and Betr with whom we have been in touch for a
few weeks without ever meeting each other. We go and visit a church in
Ipiales whilst waiting for the office of the insurance to open. The
church is built on a bridge and the side of the mountain is used as a
wall for the entire building: really impressive. |
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Sunday, 28 September 2008 |
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Quito is a beautiful capital. We enjoy our stay here even though we can
feel insecurity around which isn't as strong as in La Paz or Lima.
Diego, the beetle club president, contacts us before our arrival and
invites us to the weekly meeting. It's a pleasure to meet them because
of their interest, their curiosity for our odyssey. Diego offers to
give the car a thourough check the following day. In the meantime,
Serafin, another member of the club, organises interviews with the TV
(RTS, an important national channel!) and a few magazines. |
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Ecuador, middle of the earth, middle of the trip |
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Monday, 22 September 2008 |
We cross the border on a Saturday: the customs office are closed on the Ecuadorian side but we decide to follow an electrician who enters the building. Our ruthlessness is paying off: a civil servant is working extra hours and kindly accepts to do the our paperwork.
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Visit of the pre-incas sites in Northern Peru |
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Friday, 12 September 2008 |
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In the morning we find our guide who we organised our visits with the
previous day: departure on a moto-tricyle for the ruins of an
astronomical centre adn some pre-Incan huacas. The cultural break over
we get back on the road and stop at play de las tortugas before
eventually reaching Huanchaco where we will stay 2 nights. Mema and I
make the most of it to visit Chan-Chan, an enormous abandonned city. |
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Saturday, 30 August 2008 |
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Lima is tiring: the horn beeping, the lack of respect for the basic
road rules, the pollution. Just another modern capital in other words.
We however find in Lima what we had lost when leaving Argentina:
civilisation. The publicity on the car and on the website help us to
quickly find a mechanics through the VW beetle club in Peru
(www.caveperu.net). We meet John who invites us to one of the weekly
meetings on the car park of Plaza Lima Sur. We'll meet again the
following week to do a presentation of the H2 Project and the ease of
use of hydrogen. |
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Cuzco to Lima via Machu Picchu and Choquequirao |
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Friday, 15 August 2008 |
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Elise has gone, Mema has arrived. We quickly visit Cuzco and leave the
following day for Cachora where Walter is waiting for us for another
2-week long trek. After spending another night with the cuys (massive
guinea pig), we start early in the morning; there is Walter, Mema and
myself and 3 horses. |
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The Nasca lines, Choquerirao and back to Cuzco |
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Friday, 25 July 2008 |
At Santa Teresa we sleep in a hostel from where we organise our visit
to the Machu Picchu. The following day, we get up at 03.30 to take the
train up to Aguas Calientes. On the train there are only locals. We
enjoy this 1-hour morning ride before starting the ascent on foot of
the mountain where the site stands.
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Sunday, 20 July 2008 |
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After a few hours on the road we arrive at Copacabana, a kind of sea
resort on the shores of lake Titicaca. Copacabana fills with tourist
during the festival of the local virgin. The hotel supply is therefore
abundant and since it is now off-peak season we can find a cheap one.
The manager enquires about the Project. |
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The impressive salar of Uyuni |
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Thursday, 10 July 2008 |
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Uyuni is the largest salty desert in the world but its main characteristic is to be located in…Bolivia… The Bolivian is a being from another planet where there is no hot water
(even if indicated in flashy letters on the top of the hotel), no
smiles, no roads (already mentioned), nor other word than "gringo" to
describe this alien commonly known as tourist. The Bolivian world is
made of smoking coaches with super-springs, brand new 4x4 bearing
the name of multinational on their sides, walls painted and repainted
to the rythm of elections with slogans (such as "Evo…lucion"). |
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Sunday, 06 July 2008 |
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We find a hostel in Jujuy but an incident forces us (100 pesos to wash
a bag of clothes when it should have been only 30 pesos..) to change:
we find the hostel Jujuy, run by Tito a very nice character. We meet
some French girls studying medicine on an internship exchange; they
financially help the H2 Project by buying the official shirt. |
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Renew the visa before its expiry on the 26/06 at 23.59… |
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Saturday, 28 June 2008 |
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On the morning of the 26/06, we take the direction of Jama, the border
post 160km away from Susques. Unfortunately, the symptoms of the
previous day are quick to reappear, and the car stops definitely 30km
away from the border. Just to make sure to be on time, I decide to
hitch-hike, have my passport stamped and then come back. |
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Visit of Tolar Grande, hidden jewel of Argentina |
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Tuesday, 24 June 2008 |
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We set off on the 22nd in the evening for the road of the" train of the
clouds". What a shame it does not work anymore; it is in a western film
landscape that the rails follow the cruves of the mountains or that
steel bridges go across tiny but deep rivers... |
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Visit of Salta and surroundings |
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Thursday, 12 June 2008 |
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Mema joins us by plane on the Fridsy the 13th. We finish visiting
"Salta la linda" together and wait for Vincent's arrival from San Juan
where he had a tooth removed. The next day we decide to go to Cachi, a
picturesque village 180km to the West of Salta. But before we have to
fill up the car (that is unfortunately not yet running on hydrogen) and
that is the same story as everyone else: we have to queue because of
limited supply of fuel due to roadblocks caused by farmers protesting
against raising export taxes). |
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On the road to the beautiful landscapes of the North West |
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Monday, 09 June 2008 |
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After Uspallata, we take the road to the North, in the direction of
Valle de la Luna. We follow the Andes and on the track we find a
mini-desert: it’s the pampa del Leoncito where we make the most of it
to take some great shots. And then, as expected, first wheel change
without a jack. We visit the observatory and a 2nd puncture forces us
to rush to the nearest village: Barreal. That’s where we meet Chupino
Lopez, an 83 year old chap who repairs tyres and quikly understands
that Vincent’s aching tooth is a problem for all of us… |
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Back to Mendoza for the second time |
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Monday, 05 May 2008 |
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When I arrive in Mendoza, I realize that the engine leak that has been
present since Santiago is now more important and so I decide to take
the car back to the garage of PP. Fram. For many reasons, this
breakdown will force me to stay in Mendoza for a month and this is why
I would like to thank Hostel Savigliano for not chrging m for the
length of my stay. The leak turns out to be only an o'ring in the oil
radiator; I'm relieved even though we had to dismount the engine twice.
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Friday, 02 May 2008 |
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The road I follow is amazing; small laces next to the cliff, blue lakes
and only one every 3 hours… On the way I take some info and I learn
that the Copahue spa is worth the trip. I arrive in the evening at
Loncopue, a village surrounded by indigenous communities (Mapuches).
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Friday, 25 April 2008 |
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We spend 2 nights in Esquel (you've probably heard of Esquel following
the eruption of the Chalten volcano on the Chilean side). We'll spend
our last day horse-riding (cabalgata) with Hector, a special character.
He's a true gaucho: the hat, the coat, teh boots, the manners, the
machism and even the mate container made with the skin of the testicule
of a poor bull. After a few hours riding we reach an improvised
campsite (we are allegedly sitting on a hill full of gold but I'll keep
the place secret… |
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Sunday, 20 April 2008 |
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I would like to thank Kiki: coming all over from Europe to accompany me
15 days in this adventures, he really needed some nerves. So I would
like to show him m gratitude by writing this short post: I will offer
500km of co-driving in the H2 car to the first who can match the
pictures below with the following comments: |
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Visit of the hydrogen production plant of Pico Truncado |
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Monday, 14 April 2008 |
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We eventually arrive in Pico Truncado. It's the moment of emotion. So many km of straight roads to come and visit one of the only 3 hydrogen production plants using renewable energy in the world: we are at the experimental hydrogen production plant of Pico Truncado in Patagonia. |
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Destination: Pico Truncado |
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Sunday, 06 April 2008 |
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It's another sunny day for our big departure to the South. The time to say goodbye to everybody and we are now heading towards Sierra la Ventana wher we'll spend the night sleeping in the car. The following day we climb to the top of the first mountain we see since we left Buenos Aires. The park rangers are intrigued by the car and it's another occasion to talk about the H2 Project and hydrogen. |
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Friday, 07 March 2008 |
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The return to Buenos Aires is almost boring if not for a fine that I
have to pay 80km before reaching Buenos Aires for allegedly crossing a
yellow line. "Allegedly" because whoever has ever come to Argentina
knows that yellow lines are barely respected (Argentina has the sad
record of the highest number of deaths by road accident with 11.000 a
year) and usually the local police doesn't really care.
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Thursday, 21 February 2008 |
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On the way to Mendoza… The car works perfectly and I can familiarize myself with it. Everything goes well until the 100th km wher I can feel a ligth power loss. Not knowing where the problem comes from and thinking it will be cheaper to have it checked on the Argentinean side, I prefer trying to climb the Andes. |
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In seach of a car in Chile |
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Sunday, 10 February 2008 |
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Here I am in Santiago de Chile, a modern capital in comparison with Buenos Aires. I settle down at Hostal Plaza Brasil. Because it's not yet officially open the place is clean and spacious and the few people already there are very nice (apart from an alcoholic). I explain my Project and everyone starts helping me; thank you all again! |
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Saturday, 26 January 2008 |
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Gualeguaychu is a town located 3 hours to the North of Buenos Aires just on the Uruguayan border. Apart for the carnaval, Gualguaychu is also known for being the centre of an international row with the construction of a Swedish paper factory on the Uruguyan side. Reason for the protest: pollution. However I found out that the level of contamination emitted by the factory was much lower than the most stringent international limits… It seems that in fact the protest is organised because the factory wasn't built n the other side of the river… |
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Friday, 14 December 2007 |
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Where to start? There are so many things to do in Buenos Aires. you obviously have to visit the Boca (bad reputation), Recoletta (posh), Belgrano (aristocrat), Palermo (over-stated) neighbourhoods. I rapidly made new friends (too many to cite them all here) that I would like to thank for supporting me in my project. |
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Wednesday, 14 November 2007 |
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After having tried the delights of the Caribbean, Guadalupe, Saint Martin, Jamaica (only 1h due to a over-zealous customs official who didn't like my face: I hereby launch a fatwa against him - his name is available upon request - and would strongly recommend not to travel to this country; all my letters to the authorities were left unanswered…), Curacao, here comes Venezuela… without my rucksack (we will be reunited a month later in Buenos Aires). |
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Friday, 12 October 2007 |
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A passion for adventure, the spices of the unknown and an appetite for discovery; here are the ingredients of a story to tell around a fire. A recipe that I eventually know rather well. Here it goes and all those interested are invited to join it. But before beginning, let me warn you, we are talking about spicy cuisine: a beetle (the car), the South American flavours and of course a bit of experimental cooking: modifying this car to run on hydrogen. |
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